![]() ![]() If a leading edge or crossbar is damaged it may be necessary to remove the opposite, undamaged part and duplicate it with raw materials. It is nearly impossible to find parts for many gliders on the used market. If you discover any significant amount of corrosion, move on to the next glider.ĭON'T buy a glider with a dented or bent frame parts unless there is a professional willing and able to fix the glider with the appropriate parts. Look very closely at the end of all sleeves and around bushings and rivets. Usually this will be found on the inside of aluminum tubes and under sleeves. On Aluminum, corrosion will look like a white powder that is adhered to the corroded part. Corrosion on aluminum has a different look than corrosion on steel. If you find rust on any of the bolts and/or other hardware you should also thoroughly inspect the aluminum tubes for corrosion (inside and out). You should do through inspection of the glider and its hardware. If the glider you're looking at has rusted bolts it's not been taken care of very well. Again, buy new if possible.ĭON'T buy a glider with lots of rust on the hardware. As a basic rule of thumb you should plan on spending an absolute minimum of $700 for a reasonably good used beginning glider, but $1,000 to $1,500 is more realistic when it comes to a quality used wing. If two instructors agree that the glider model isn't for you, listen to their advice. If the instructor doesn't give you the answers you're looking for, call another. The absolute best thing you can do when considering a used glider is to call up a reputable instructor and ask what he thinks about that particular model. Most gliders that were good beginner gliders when they were built are still good beginner gliders now. The gliders that fall into this category will be extremely cheap ($300-$500) and should be avoided. If it was hard to fly then, it's hard to fly now. To begin with, if a glider was considered high performance in its day, that meant it was also hard to fly. The hard part is judging which ones are good and which ones are bad. There are some gliders made since 1979 that I wouldn't wish on anyone. Just because I ruled out all gliders made before 1979 doesn't mean I'm recommending all gliders made after that. Period! The money you'll save won't justify the hassle and possible danger you may subject yourself to. Unfortunately that isn't the case, and since I don't know you or your aspirations in hang gliding I'm going to give some guidelines to go by.ĭON'T purchase a glider that was made before 1979. If I were talking to you in person I would name the used gliders I think are well suited for you at this stage. So if you're going to but a used glider, at least let me steer you in the right direction. The modern-day pilot who is just starting out in the sport should consider himself fortunate.Īlthough I would love to see all new pilots in new, state-of-the-art, entry-level gliders, the reality is that there are some really excited folks out there who would just love to get into this sport, but just can't afford a new wing. Those of us who have been around for awhile would have loved to have the opportunity to do our early flying in such nimble and forgiving aircraft. There are a number of new gliders on the market these days that are incredibly well suited for the beginner pilot's first purchase. I, personally recommend a new glider in your class and weight range. ![]() He has been at this for awhile, and understands why a certain glider will be best suited for you. Whenever possible, purchase the glider your instructor recommends. To be honest, if you can't afford a good glider, one way or another, you should probably postpone your decision to enter the sport. One of the last things you want to be cheap about is your glider. The purpose of this article is to help you make a wise decision when trying to be frugal. I've been hang gliding for a long time, have taught quite a few people this wonderful sport, and have helped some of them save money in the right places. ![]()
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